2010 Chablis Les Clos

(bottled in January of 2012): Very ripe aromas of orange, vanilla and flowers. Juicy and minerally but backward; denser than the Mont-de-Milieu but less showy today. Tight and gripping grand cru with lovely mineral energy and a note of orange oil giving a tactile quality to the brisk, mounting finish. Built to age: I'd start drinking this in five years. (A retaste of the 2010 Clos Cuvee Authentique, which I rated 91-94 last year and which will not be bottled until late summer, showed aromas of mirabelle and pina colada; a silky, glyceral texture leavened by strong acidity; and a powerful, slightly sweet back end lifted by spicy high tones. On this latest tasting, I rated the wine 91-93.)

Pale yellow. Complex, highly perfumed nose offers citrus fruits, white peach, minerals, sexy brown spices and subtle oak suggestions. Rich, ripe, saline and light on its feet, with lovely breadth to its saline flavors of white peach and acacia flower. Classy, deep wine with excellent concentration and length. Really dusts the palate with flavor on the aftertaste. The Pinsons will bottle their premier crus in July but wait until the end of the year for this grand cru.