2009 Proprietary Red, Paradise Hills Vineyard

The 2009 Proprietary Red Paradise Hills Vineyard (81.8% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16.7% Merlot and the rest Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot that achieved 14.9% alcohol) exhibits a beautiful perfume of scorched earth, chocolate, espresso beans, creme de cassis, plums and Asian spices. Full-bodied, deep and just beginning to strut its stuff, with formidable tannins in the finish, it has 20-25 years of upside potential. The Blankiet Estate owned by Claude and Katherine Blankiet is beautifully situated on the lower hillsides of the Mayacamas Mountains, just behind the large Napanook estate of Dominus. An enviable group of talented people have provided assistance here, beginning with David Abreu, Helen Turley and John Wetlaufer, followed by Michel Rolland, Martha McLellan, and more recently Denis Malbec. Production remains between 1,800 and 2,500 cases with nearly half of that devoted to their second wine, the Prince of Hearts. The other cuvees include the Proprietary Red (Cabernet Sauvignon-dominated) and the Rive Droite (a Pomerol / St.-Emilion look-a-like wine), and in 2012, they added a tiny, 100% Cabernet Sauvignon cuvee called Mythicus. I could be wrong, but it seems to me these wines, which performed very well, and are among the finest of the so-called “cult” wines of Napa Valley, remain under-the-radar. Perhaps that is due to the small production. The 2009s are all stunning. In the challenging 2011 vintage, the Blankiets along with their winemaker Denis Malbec have fashioned very good examples, although they are much lighter and less concentrated and authoritative than the top vintages. The 2012s are among the finest wines Blankiet has yet made. Tel. (707) 963-2001

The 2009 Proprietary Red Paradise Hills Vineyard is the most harmonious and integrated of the 2009s I tasted. Plums, black currants, espresso, mocha and smoke all jump from the glass in this large- scaled, powerful wine. Seemingly endless layers of fruit build to the huge, explosive finish. This is a fairly extroverted vintage that will be fun to drink with minimum cellaring. In 2009 the blend is 82% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot and drops of Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot.