1979 Dom Ruinart

The vegetative cycle began late, but the early growth of the Chardonnays and pinots was excellent. Grape-worms and Brenner disease affected certain areas of the vineyard. The Chardonnays flowered rapidly, allowing them to ripen under good conditions, and leading to a particularly abundant, unusually late harvest (October 3). The grapes were quite healthy compared with the small harvest of 1978, so spirits were high. Harvest: Baumé 9°4 GL – Total acidity 8.8 g/l H2SO4 – S/A 18 Chardonnay: Baumé 9°5 GL – Total acidity 8.7 g/l H2SO4 Yield: 10,339 kg/ha Assemblage: 100% Chardonnay Grand Cru, exclusively from the Côte des Blancs and the Montagne de Reims. A bottle from outside the house so they don't know the disgorgement date. Dark brassy colour. A little old and oxidised on the nose. But then it turned into something like a lovely Chenin Blanc with its honey and flowers. It has kept remarkably well. Sweet, polished walnut nose and then more like a liqueur almost than a champagne. Certainly quite sweet. Then refreshingly dry on the end. Quite a sweet and sour puzzle. Mushroomy but by no means unpleasant! (JR)

The 1979 Dom Ruinart may have suffered by being placed after the Taittinger. It came across as rather lean and focused, but it still showed outstanding balance and plenty of personality.