2016 Moulin a Vent (Moulis)

There was some hail in the region but mostly on the lower vineyards so they were less affected than they were to be in 2017. Fruit from the lieux-dits Le Moulin-à-Vent, La Rochelle, La Roche, Les Thorins and Les Caves. Vineyards are 40–80 years old on granite soils, subsoils rich in manganese and metal oxides. Hand-harvested 20–26 September. Yields 32 hl/ha. 23% whole bunch. Cold pre-fermentation maceration. Pigeage early on and remontage later in the ferment. Three weeks on skins. 66% of the wine aged in 225- and 350-litre barrels but only 4% new oak. Six months in tank. Mid crimson, a little darker than the 2017, and a little darker fruited and opens up in the glass to a darker and more peppery scent, more peony, a little bit like northern Rhône Syrah, as Édouard Parinet points out – and I agree. This has the classic savoury character of Moulin-à-Vent and still the fragrance of thoughtfully made Gamay on granite, a gently dark-earthed aroma. Makes me think of clean, dark friable earth. Dry, elegant and beautifully balanced. Elegant length and dry finely textured finish even though it is still pretty youthful. (JH)

Brilliant violet color. Pungent, spice-accented red/blue fruit and floral scents are lifted by a smoky mineral nuance that gains strength with air. Offers palate-staining black raspberry, boysenberry and mocha flavors that show excellent clarity and back-end thrust. Finishes sappy, sweet and impressively long, with a repeating floral note and smooth, well-judged tannins.

Mid glowing garnet. Complete and gorgeous. Much more satisfying already than most of the Pinot Noirs in this tasting. Long and confident. (JR)