1999 Vosne romanée Le Clos Goillotte

Tasted from magnum, the 1999 Vosne-Romanee Le Clos Goillotte is initially a little scrawny both on the nose and the palate, but don’t be fooled – it’s just toying with you. Observing the wine over two hours, it coalesces on the nose with scents of red berries, iron rust, chestnut and Provencal herbs – fully mature but divine. The palate similarly seems to be at its peak, but there is certainly good substance here with marmalade, bay leaf and leather infusing the degraded red fruit. There is something autumnal about this Clos Goillotte, but with aeration it certainly still gives much pleasure. I would be more cautious with respect to 750ml examples. Drink now-2017. Tasted June 2014.