2009 Pinot Noir Eoin

(sourced from the Sonoma Stage vineyard): Deep ruby. Pungent, heady aromas of blackberry, cola, incense and potpourri. Deeply pitched but lively, with notes of allspice and star anise building with air. This taut, focused pinot offers dark berry and licorice flavors and a strong suggestion of spicecake. Shows impressive energy on the long, floral-accented finish.

The 2009 Pinot Noir Eoin Stage Vineyard is gorgeous. Black cherries, tobacco, leather, licorice and violets are some of the notes that flow from this taut Pinot. There is an energy and sheer vibrancy to the Eoin that is immensely appealing. The balance of fruit and structure is compelling. This is a fabulous showing. The clones at Stage are Calera and Swan.

The 2009 Pinot Noir Eoin Stage Vineyard is gorgeous. Black cherries, tobacco, leather, licorice and violets are some of the notes that flow from this taut Pinot. There is an energy and sheer vibrancy to the Eoin that is immensely appealing. The balance of fruit and structure is compelling. This is a fabulous showing. The clones at Stage are Calera and Swan. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2021. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com