2017 Scharzhof Riesling

Ripe pear and apple dominate on the nose and palate of this reduced-volume Scharzhof bottling, its richness of fruit and textural glossiness nicely complemented by nippy suggestions of cresses, piquancy of fruit seed and bright citricity. Whereas the 2016 rendition harbored 25 grams of residual sugar – relatively normal for this cuvée – here we have 41 grams, a testimony to the high must weights that had already accumulated by the end of September, especially in severely frost-trimmed Saarburg, whence much of the Scharzhof Riesling is sourced. And despite that level of residual sugar, the sense of sweetness here is pleasantly restrained thanks to efficacious acidity. The clear and refreshingly juicy finish is likely to pick up additional nuance with a bit more time in bottle.