2023 Clos Vougeot

Here too there is enough wood to notice setting off the spicy dark berry fruit scents that are liberally laced with humus and earth characters. The delicious and vibrant, if not super-dense, middle weight flavors do possess a highly refined, even seductive, mouthfeel while displaying the hallmark youthful austerity of a classic Clos de Vougeot. This should amply repay a decade plus of keeping. Drink 2033+

The 2023 Clos Vougeot Grand Cru Vieilles Vignes derives exclusively from the domaine's old vines toward the top of their large parcel as opposed to the lower-lying blocks and younger vines. Exhibiting aromas of smoky berries, cherries, incense and sweet spices, it's medium to full-bodied, layered and fleshy, with a textural, gourmand profile that's one of the vintage's most appealing guises. By the time of the 2023 vintage, the new Rebourseau winery was fully complete, so winemaker Bastien Giraud (who spent several years as second-in-command chez Faiveley) was able to receive the abundant crop in luxurious new facilities. Harvest began on September 11, and the crop was mostly destemmed, with Giraud pursuing a light touch with extraction. When I visited, the wines had recently been racked to tank, so some may have been a little discombobulated; but everything showed well, particularly the Perrières, Mazis-Chambertin and Clos de Bèze, which exhibited a touch more density than the rest of the range. Of course, bringing viticulture up to an élite level may take longer than constructing a new winery; but it's clear that no efforts or expense are being spared to elevate this estate to the place in the Burgundian firmament that its wonderful palette of terroirs deserves.

The higher and lower plots, and the young vines from 2011 are all made apart. In 2023 they have not included either the bottom section or the younger vines, leaving two-thirds of their vineyard production for their own wine. A rich mid crimson purple. Some graphite on the nose along with red berry fruit. Quite concentrated, the oak still a little present, good acidity, fair tension, and certainly intensity to the finish. While this Clos Vougeot needs more barrel ageing to achieve harmony, I am confident of the final result.