2023 Chambolle Musigny Les Charmes

The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes is more structured than the Petits Vougeots, exhibiting notes of cherries and raspberries mingled with vine smoke, orange zest and spices. Medium to full-bodied, lively and layered, with bright acids and a saline finish, it derives from a parcel to the north of the vineyard, touching Les Feusselottes. This is another strong set of wines from Charles Van Canneyt—but that won't surprise readers familiar with this estate's consistent excellence. Van Canneyt has had the reins here for over a decade now, and his approach has crystalized: the predominantly destemmed fruit, retained intact, is fermented in cement tanks for a classical maceration of two to three weeks. Élevage is in barrels now predominantly sourced from Cavin, with Cadus in a supporting role, and lasts fully 18 months in the domaine's cold cellar, with the exception of the Bourgogne Rouge, which is bottled before harvest. These uncomplicated methods, combined with an enviable palette of appellations planted with notably old vines, produce elegant, charming wines with impressive substance and aging potential. I've been buying them for my own cellar since my student days, so this is an address I warmly recommend.

The 2023 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Les Charmes is more structured than the Petits Vougeots, exhibiting notes of cherries and raspberries mingled with vine smoke, orange zest and spices. Medium to full-bodied, lively and layered, with bright acids and a saline finish, it derives from a parcel to the north of the vineyard, touching Les Feusselottes.

Like the Les Petits Vougeots, the expressive nose is wonderfully elegant, pure and wafting with its profile of red pinot fruit, spice and a floral top note. There is an equally good sense of underlying tension to the refined medium-bodied flavors that exude evident minerality on the youthfully austere, balanced and strikingly long finale. This is terrific as well and just as warmly recommended. Drink from 2033.