2023 Chateauneuf du Pape

Medium ruby-hued, with a thrilling nose of mulled red and black fruits, olive tapenade, damp flowers, and Provençal herbs, the 2023 Châteauneuf Du Pape is based on 80% Grenache with 10% Mourvèdre, 7% Syrah, and 3% Cinsault, aged 18 months in 75% concrete with 20% large wooden vats and 5% old barrels. It's medium to full-bodied, has a pure, layered, graceful mouthfeel, ultra-fine tannins, and a great finish. All of the estates chasing the new "elegant" style could learn something from tasting more Marcoux, an estate that has always produced sensationally pure, seamless, and elegant wines with richness, depth, texture, and character. Drink 2025-2045. One of the benchmark estates in all of France, Domaine de Marcoux is run today by the talented Sophie Armenier and her son Vincent, who is increasingly active in the vineyard. Sophie's sister Catherine recently retired, and the estate farms 18 hectares in Châteauneuf-du-Pape, eight hectares in Lirac, and just over two hectares of Côtes du Rhône. The estate is located just outside the northern edge of the appellation, with vines primarily in the south (Grandes Serres, Les Plagnes, and Les Galimardes), northwest (Beaurenard, Les Pradel, Maucoil, and L'Arnesque), and in the center (Les Esqueirons, Les Bosquets, and Charbonnière). The classic Châteauneuf-du-Pape is 80% Grenache with 10% Mourvèdre, 7% Syrah, and 3% Cinsault, destemmed and aged 18 months in 75% concrete with 20% large wooden vats and 5% old barrels. The Vieilles Vignes is 100% Grenache aged in foudre from Charbonnière and Esqueirons (Galimardes was removed starting in 2019), and it's one of the world's most profound wines. All of the estates chasing the new "elegant" style could learn something from tasting more Marcoux, an estate that has always produced sensationally pure, seamless, and elegant wines with richness, depth, texture, and character. The whites are also brilliant and increasingly up with the crème de la crème of the vintage. As I've said before, there are few wines I'd rather have in my cellar or on the table.