1991 Unico Gran Reserva

85% Tinto Fino, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon. Wetter-than-average summer but dry conditions at (early) harvest (30 September). Post fermentation 2 years in large-capacity wooden vats. American and French oak was used although mainly American. It was further aged for 16 months in new casks, 2 years in second-use casks and another 3 years in large-capacity wooden vats. 98,098 bottles, 2,222 magnums, 132 double magnums. From magnum. Heady and sweet and so vibrant. Real high-elevation wine that is – just – not too tart. Lots going on here – so energetic! (JR)

A full-on hedonistic bomb of a wine, the 1991 Unico has just about everything you could want. Kirsch, mulled spices, blackberry liqueur, potpourri and loads of spice give way to a fully mature, full-bodied, elegant red that has good acidity and a seamless texture. It’s ripe, textured, and drinking beautifully today, but its purity of fruit and balance is going to keep it drinking nicely for at least another decade.

Dark red. Highly complex nose melds plum, cherry, roasted meat, iron, truffle, mocha and underbrush. Broad, sweet and concentrated, but not at all an exotic or supersweet vintage for Vega Sicilia. In fact, this smooth midweight has some rather intriguing, cool notes of minerals and botanical herbs. Finishes with fine, dusty tannins and excellent length. A much more polite style of wine than the chewy, powerful and considerably more explosive '89.