2012 Doyard Extra-Brut Grand Cru Les Lumieres

Doyard's 2012 Extra-Brut Grand Cru Les Lumières was disgorged only a few days before I tasted it, with just over one gram per liter dosage, but its considerable potential is already amply apparent. Unfurling in the glass with aromas of crisp, golden orchard fruit, green mango and buttery pastry mingled with subtle hints of white flowers and peach, it's full-bodied, vinous and enveloping, with a pillowy mousse, racy acids and a long, resonant finish. Seamless and complete, it's the usual blend of Chardonnay from Mesnil-sur-Oger and Pinot Noir from Aÿ. I revisited another bottle a few months later, and it only confirmed my original assessment that this is one of the wines of the vintage in Champagne in 2012.