2010 Gevrey Chambertin La Croix des Champs

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Le Croix de Champs shows lovely aromatic lift and finesse from the inclusion of 50% whole stems. Rose petals, cherries, spices and licorice are all woven together in this impeccable Gevrey. The focused, energetic finish is truly beautiful. Anticipated maturity: 2015-2025. I was deeply impressed with the wines I tasted with Thibault Liger-Belair. Thibault’s core holdings are the remaining vestiges of his family’s portion of the original Liger-Belair estate that was sold in the early 1930s. In recent years, Liger-Belair has added a few negociant wines to augment his range. Thibault Liger-Belair is the largest owner of the Nuits St. Georges 1er Cru Les St. Georges and the leading proponent of the movement to have the vineyard classified as a Grand Cru. Liger-Belair’s decision to taste his Les St. Georges in between the Clos de Vougeot and Richebourg makes an eloquent case. In fact, words are pretty much superfluous at that point. I will report on Liger-Belair’s 2009s in the April issue. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802

(50% vendange entier ; the estate's best pickers started with the best clusters, and this fruit went right into the fermenter, noted Liger-Belair, adding that the fermentation lasted a full month): Bright ruby-red. Aromas of wild raspberry, blackberry, black cherry, violet and smoke, with a whiff of noble reduction. Dense, sweet and vibrant if not hugely complex. The firm, rising, satisfying finish features peppery spices from the stems. From 60-year-old vines on the wrong side of the route nationale .