1988 Chambertin

Modestly saturated red with an amber edge. Wild, expressive scents of plum, leather and minerals are distinctly more evolved than those of the 1990 Vieilles Vignes bottling. Salty, suave wine with a seamless texture and a repeating leathery note to its flavors of plum, minerals and subtle dried flowers. Quite complex and perfumed in an old-fashioned way, conveying captivating vinosity. Finishes firm and long, with a fine dusting of tannins and lovely rising lift. This will still go on for a while. (13.7% alcohol with chaptalization; the last vintage made by Jean Trapet, the father of Jean-Louis; included a lot of small, late-picked millerandé grapes)