2011 Alain Thienot La Vigne aux Gamins Blanc de Blancs

The character of Avize is typically focused, almost austere, but this cuvée, from a 1ha plot of old vines, has a natural concentration that led to it being bottled separately from 1997. Its distinctive richness also meant they chose to stop the softening malolactic fermentation as of the 2010 vintage, to ensure a focus on freshness and minerality. Having said all that, the challenging vintage and early harvest of 2011 has delivered an even more elegant and finessed version of Vigne aux Gamins than we found last year. In its place is an elegant and nuanced Champagne with lemongrass, green apple and cucumber notes, with gentle pulses of juice and slate minerality, and understated persistence. Things deepen through the mid palate to show the evolution of a decade since harvest, with touches of wax, quince and honeysuckle, and it seems clear that this vintage will age quicker than the 2010. Opens quickly in the glass, so where the 2010 you might want to decant half an hour before drinking, you don't need to do so here - keep it more to 10 to 15 minutes. Great time to begin drinking to capture this finesse, and there is a good five years ahead. Harvest August 19 to 27. 3ph, 2g/l dosage. This is the first and only release, disgorged in March 2023.

Single-vineyard champagne from an Avize east-facing vineyard of 50-year-old vines dedicated by Alain Thiénot to his children Stanislas and Garance. Négociant goes grower!? This blend – no malo – is based on 2010 and was bottled in 2012 for 11 years' tirage. Disgorged in March 2023 with a dosage of 2 g/l. pH 2.99. Just 3,500 bottles made. Obvious maturity on the nose and some of the attractive mealy character of well-aged Chardonnay. Good balance and more serious than a typical aperitif Blanc de Blancs. Real bite! A wine for food? (JR)