2021 Yjar

Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Malvasía, Granegro and Rojal. Telmo Rodríguez was one of the first to put Rioja wines on the Place de Bordeaux. The 3.8-ha property in Labastida is in the foothills of the Sierra de Toloño, at 600–800 m. Deep loamy alkaline soils, stony and high in carbonates. Old goblet-trained co-planted with a mass selection. Hand-harvested 14–24 October. Spontaneous fermentation in small, open-top wooden vats. Mid translucent crimson. This is an absolute beauty. Subtle, elegant, and fragrant. Fragrant but not heavily perfumed. A touch herbal but no greenness at all, just perhaps a slight stemmy character? The tannins are incredibly fine, like many layers of paper. Has immense precision, subtlety and length. It is surprisingly accessible but should also age really well. Mouth-wateringly fresh and drinkable, though it is still very young. (JH)

Tempranillo, Garnacha, Graciano, Granegro (Gran Negro, or Grand Noir?), Rojal (a synonym for (white) Alarije apparently). From Labastida (Álava) in the foothills of the Sierra de Toloño at 600–800 m above sea level. From a vintage Telmo R expected to be one of the great classics like 1964. Harvest 14–24 October. Fermentation with native yeasts in small open-top wooden vats. Bottled 23 May 2024; 10,050 bottles produced. Still very closed. Savoury, tightly knit fruit on the palate. Delicately balanced on a tightrope. All reined in. The most youthful wine tasted so far at this Beyond Bordeaux showing. (JR)

An excellent vintage in Rioja, and the promise of Yjar is delivering a totally knockout wine here. Impossible not to smile when tasting this, so much energy and precision, savoury, mouthwatering redcurrant, cranberry, blueberry fruits, with waves of dried herbs, lavender, and crushed rose petals. Juicy, moreish, building in power across the palate. Tasted at the estate and again in Bordeaux. Telmo Rodriguez winemaker of this 3.8ha plot set within his family Remelluri estate in the foothills of the Sierra de Toloño in Rioja Alavesa. Harvest October 14 to 24, fermentation with native yeasts, open top wooden vats.