2004 Malmsey

The 2004 Malmsey is a clear amber color. It has a slightly backward bouquet for its type and needs more coaxing from the glass than expected. Dried honey, undergrowth, clove and smoky scents gradually emerge, although they never quite click into fifth gear. The palate is well balanced with a fine bead of acidity. Elegant and poised, this delivers pure marmalade, quince and clove notes mixed with white pepper and a dab of marjoram. Long and tender on the finish, it is a very poised and intellectual Malmsey that does not exude heaviness. Excellent.