1997 Echezeaux

There is no doubting the exemplary vineyard and cellar work performed by the young and conscientious Jean-Yves Bizot. His organic farming and non-interventionist winemaking techniques have been described and praised in The Wine Advocate (most recently in issue #118). There is no doubt that Bizot is a vigneron whose name consumers need to commit to memory. Jean-Yves Bizot's 1997 Echezeaux has a great chance of outliving its tannic shell. The first words in my tasting book say, "1990 Montrose!" This wine, which is the result of paltry 16 hectoliter per hectare yields, displays the same monstrous levels of ripeness, density, concentration, and structure as that St. Estephe benchmark setter. Its magnificent aromatics are reminiscent of spices awash in perfume and blackberry liqueur. On the palate, licorice, asphalt, creme de cassis, and herbal notes burst forth before being conquered by the formidable tannins. This may be one of those rare Burgundies that will necessitate 20+ years of cellaring. If so it could ultimately merit a score in the mid to upper ninety point range. However, Pinot Noir rarely copes well with tannins, unlike Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines, and experience suggest it will probably dry out before its substantial backbone softens. Anticipated maturity: 2007-2020? Importer: A Patrick Lesec Selection, Paris Fax #: 011-33-1-44-70-62-93; and a Peter Vezan Selection, Paris fax #011-33-1-42-55-42-93.