1947 Malartic Lagraviere

Tasted at the Académie du Vin dinner in Bordeaux, the 1947 Malartic-Lagraviere displayed impressive intensity on the nose, with juniper berries and even a hint of Christmas cake infusing the nose, evincing the warmth of that growing season, even after 70 years. The palate is medium-bodied, with tart red fruit on the entry and a little firmness toward the second half. With age, it has developed a slight fish oil note and perhaps there is more rusticity on the finish than some of the better 1947s, even at this age. It is a competent, rather than electrifying, Graves for the vintage, although well-kept bottles should still give pleasure. Tasted April 2017.