2008 Syrah Californio Hyde de Villaine

The 2008 Syrah Californio Hyde Vineyard bursts from the glass with red cherries, crushed flowers, spices and tobacco. This is an especially sweet, perfumed, feminine Syrah with a lot of Pinot-like overtons. The structure and gravitas of Syrah come through on the finish, although this remains a wine built on polish and fragrance above all else. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2023. This was my first visit to HdV (Hyde de Villaine), a small artisan winery located in southern Napa Valley. HdV is partnership between Larry Hyde and his cousin Pamela de Villaine’s family, including her husband, Aubert de Villaine, one of the co-owners of Burgundy’s Domaine de la Romanee-Conti. The wines are generally made with an emphasis on freshness that is achieved through early picking and gentle winemaking. Not surprisingly, the Chardonnays are steely and tense in style, while the Syrah is restrained relative to what most readers are likely to expect in California. Pinot Noir is a recent addition to the lineup. Given the estate’s Burgundian connection, it will be very interesting to see what develops here with Pinot over the coming years. The estate’s Belle Cousine Bordeaux-blend appears to still be a work in progress and the wine less inherently suited to the goals of the estate. Tel. (707) 251-9121