2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes

Opaque ruby. Cherry-cola, blackberry, licorice and a hint of woodsmoke on the strikingly fragrant, oak-accented nose. Pliant, deeply concentrated dark berry, vanilla and spicecake flavors gain sweetness and weight with air, picking up a floral pastille nuance and a zesty mineral quality. Closes smoky, focused and long, with lingering oakiness and slow-building tannins that add shape. I'm confident that some bottle age will help this wine's ample fruit to harmonize with the substantial lumber component that's on display right now.

Also slightly more mid-weight than I remember, yet still more than outstanding, the 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee des Cadettes (39% Syrah, 37% Grenache, 22% Mourvedre and the rest assorted varieties, aged in new French oak) has classy notes of cassis, toast, vanilla bean and roasted meats. Possessing fabulous purity, medium to full-bodied richness and moderate overall depth and concentration, it can be enjoyed anytime over the coming decade. While this needs more flesh, it should still evolve gracefully on its overall balance.