2013 Bonnes Mares Vieilles Vignes

(these nearly century-old vines yielded only 20 hectoliters per hectare in 2013; 10% vendange entier ; the Clos Saint-Denis, Clos de la Roche, Clos de Bèze and Chambertin were all completely destemmed): Medium red. Aromas of smoky, earthy wild herbs, dried flowers and mocha, with fruit in the background today. Like liquid silk in the mouth, but energized by strong minerality and a peppery, herbal vibrancy. Incredible slow-building finish leaves behind a resounding sappy character. A potentially great and classic Bonnes-Mares for the long haul.