2013 Henriot Cuvee Hemera

A wonderfully expressive nose of sourdough, acacia, citrus peel, apricots, and honeycomb. Some pineapple and grapefruit. It’s explosive on the palate, with mouthwatering acidity and so much tension. Tight bubbles. Drives forward with energy. Chardonnay and pinot noir from the six founding crus of the house: Avize, Chouilly, Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Mailly-Champagne, Verzenay and Verzy. 3.5 g/L dosage. Disgorged June 2023. Drink or hold.

A pure and ever so slightly reductive nose, that’s displays mineral notes, a little smoke, cigar leaves and hints of spice. The palate flows nicely, with linear acidity and a light, precise, fruit profile. Vibrant elegance and an acute, long and classy finish.

Laurent Fresnet probably made the right decision when, against the grain, he said that 2013 was better suited than 2012 to create a storage stable prestige champagne. Considering the deep and concentrated fruit that comes from above all Mailly in these prestige wines from Henriot, it is actually a pitfall to avoid when the degree of maturity becomes too high. There are vintages of Baccarat, Enchanteleurs and even Hemera that are a bit borderline oxidative and bloated mature fruity and I prefer the regular vintage. Now, the perfection of the style is best and most easily preserved in slightly cooler vintages and with more Avize, Le Mesnil and Verzenay in the cuvée. Many delicious wines from 2012 have matured alarmingly quickly and with 2013 the situation is the opposite. I myself was a bit wrong and thought 2013 was a bit too thin and short. Today they have developed a nicely buttery foundation and a caressing seamless texture with the high acidity and nerve intact. Few wines, if any, personify the vintage's beautiful new character better than Hemera. With grapes from Chouilly, Avize and Le-Mesnil you get both nerve and velvet carpet. Chalky stringiness from Verzy and Verzenay and a sprinkling of nougat and chocolate from Mailly gives a classic style reminiscent of both 1979 and 1988, albeit with a slightly lower peak and a slightly softer style at the same age. The development curve never deviates from its upward direction. Well-built and smooth with a deep golden color and aromas of both green, yellow and orange citrus fruits, peach, vanilla and a hint of roasted coffee beans. A note that will enhance beautifully without an ounce of oxidation spoiling the impending greatness. Significantly tastier than the stringent and potent 2008 at the moment. When it will catch up is written in the stars.