2005 St Pierre (St Julien)

These were the years when Saint-Pierre began to live up to its potential. Ripe ruby in colour, with enticing aromatics of dark cinammon and turmeric spices, and heaps of liqourice, marmite, slate, crayon. This is still young, at the begining of its drinking window, extremely special with incredible depth and texture. Bursting out of the glass, will reward a little more patience, but the energy and sense of excitement is already evident. If you want to know what umami feels like, get hold of this wine. Harvest September 22 to October 5, 60% new oak.

Generous from the first nose, another sign that the 2005s are starting to come around. Finely spun tannins, and at this point the tobacco of the older vintages becomes charred cedar, campfire smoke, cool ash. Confident but finely-framed tannins, with clear blackberry and bilberry fruit pulsing underneath. Silky in texture with a burst of minerality in the mid palate making your mouth water. This is gorgeous, ready to drink but no hurry, walking the tightrope of subdued power and gentle abandon. Saint Pierre was recognised to have really delivered a hit in the 2005 vintage, and it is now the epitome of finesse. Harvest September 22 to October 5, 60% new oak.

Possibly one of two of the most concentrated St.-Juliens (Léoville Las Cases is the other), this 2005 shows wonderfully sweet tannin, a dense ruby/purple color, and lots of crème de cassis, licorice and spice. Full-bodied, opulent, and impressive, it is surprisingly soft, though it will certainly age nicely for 15-20+ years.