2008 Echezeaux

(from a .55 ha parcel in the En Orveaux climat with vines planted in 1924 and 1979). As good as the Brûlées is the Echézeaux is notably more complex with its beautiful nose of cool, pure and airy purple fruit, primarily plum, and spice elements that includes anise and clove that can also be found on the mineral suffused, lacy and energetic flavors that possess excellent underlying material on the firmly structured, linear and persistent finish. A wine of harmony as the supporting tannins are dense but fine.

Good deep red. Medicinal black cherry, iron, tobacco, minerals and rose petal on the expressive nose. Impressively concentrated and broad, with outstanding energy and inner-palate perfume to the flavors of dark fruits, spices and flowers. Perhaps a bit imploded texturally but explosive aromatically. Finishes with a firm tannic spine that will require a good seven or eight years of cellaring. If the Grands-Echezeaux was the outperformer in 2007, this cuvee outdid itself in 2008.

Picked on 30 Sep. This seems extremely sweet and ripe, and almost verging on jammy (although this sweetness was certainly a characteristic of the old René Engel wines made from these same vines). I felt the wine could do with just a little more drive and life. (JR)