2009 Gevrey Chambertin La Croix des Champs

(30% vendange entier; from 60-year-old vines planted "on the wrong side of the road") Good deep red. Spicy red fruit aromas lifted by a floral nuance. Juicy rather than fleshy, with good energy from the stem component. Distinctly wild notes of gibier and smoke. A leaner style in the context of the vintage but already boasts enticing inner-mouth perfume.