2023 Vino de Vinedo Los Parientes Pinot Noir

The 2023 Vino de Viñedo Los Parientes Pinot Noir opens with pure, red-fruited, floral and balsamic aromas that blend with a savory, damp-earth note. The palate is lacy and vibrant, finishing on an initially reserved note that awakens with aeration to reveal more depth behind its granular, silty tannin profile. Like most of the Baettig wines I sampled, this one continually evolved in the glass and could earn a higher score with additional time in the bottle. After distinguished tenures at Errázuriz, revered enologist Francisco "Pancho" Baettig and Commercial Director Carlos de Carlos launched a project in the Traiguén province of Malleco Valley. It revolves around the Viñedos Los Suizos vineyard—named as a playful nod to the Swiss heritage of both owners—planted on volcanic soil in 2013 with 6.4 hectares of Chardonnay and nine hectares of Pinot Noir, both derived from French clonal material to avoid the inconsistencies of Chilean massal selections. Readers familiar with Pancho's work at Errázuriz will not be surprised that the entire lineup is superbly executed and has quickly become a reference point. The roster is divided between the Vino de Viñedo line, which provides an overview of the vineyard as a whole, and the Selección de Parcelas bottlings, which zoom in to showcase a selection of blocks. Chardonnay undergoes barrel fermentation, and bâtonnage is used in the early stages of élevage. The first sulfur additions typically occur in the summer following the harvest. Maturation usually lasts around 13 to 14 months in approximately 35% new 400-liter barrels. Pinot Noirs incorporate about 20% whole-cluster fermentations and are aged in roughly 50% new 300-liter barrels with a slightly longer élevage. Complementing the Burgundian varieties is a newer and equally impressive Cabernet Sauvignon program based in Maule. For this line, the duo collaborates with a group of growers in Coronel de Maule who own century-old País vineyards that have gradually been grafted to Cabernet Sauvignon since the 1980s. Since Baettig's interest and involvement, this progress has accelerated, resulting in more vines being converted and the outright purchase of one site, showcased in the stunning Los Padrinos bottling. The remaining vines contribute to the Los Compadres, which boasts a unique profile that blends a vibrant, umami-like richness reminiscent of Mediterranean wines with a coniferous quality I associate with California's Santa Cruz Mountains.

The first time I’ve tasted this and the first time I’ve tasted one of Francisco Baettig’s ‘own’ wines. Incredibly interesting aromatically and incredibly pure too. Italian rooftiles under the summer sunshine, a baked clay path, wild strawberries freshly plucked from their husks, with the faintest hint of crushed rose peppercorns – rather more when you tune in on it as a note. A slight wild herbal element too. Silkily textured and yet at the same time very finely pixilated with slightly grippy, textural and very granular tannins. Very sensual and a wine that just captures interest and provides focus. I’m staggeringly impressed (not least as this is the cheapest of the range that I’ve been send – we ascend from a very high base camp)

The 2023 Pinot Noir Viñedo Los Parientes originates from Traiguén, Araucanía. Fermented with 15% whole clusters and aged for eight months in oak barrels, it presents a purple hue. Aromas of cherry, pomegranate, dried flowers and sweet briars intertwine with cedar notes. Dry, lean and taut on the palate, the combination of stem tannins, oak and silky Pinot texture elevates things, creating a faintly plush mouthfeel with a gentle roughness. This is a meticulously crafted Pinot Noir from the deep south of Chile.