2022 Gevrey Chambertin Les Champeaux

Once again moderate reduction overshadows the underlying fruit. The mouthfeel of the middleweight flavors is finer if less powerful while delivering solid length on the mineral-driven finish that is, somewhat curiously, at once youthfully austere yet mildly sweet. The sweetness is likely just a transitory phase, and certainly not a fault, but I can't say that it appealed to me stylistically. Drink 2028+

This lovely wine extends the Millemann range to the premier crus, but it is made with the same attention as the grand crus. The fruit is black plum and mulberry with hints of cigar box, earth, dark chocolate and smoke. There is substantial weight and density here, but the wine always remains light. Millemann has sourced enough fruit for two barrels (both new but with very light toast); this should begin to open in three to five years and will drink well for another 10 to 20 after this.

Older vines, a higher proportion of whole bunches (two-thirds). A rich purple colour, but not as saturated as the Cazetiers. A little touch of oak, a lot of concentrated raspberry fruit, plenty of energy, more interesting complexity at the moment. Two barrels. Excellent length.