2011 Chambolle Musigny Les Gruenchers

Dujac's 2011 Chambolle-Musigny Les Gruenchers is nicely layered in the glass. Sweet rose petals, savory herbs, mint and red berries take shape nicely. In 2011, the Gruenchers has a little less mid-palate density than it often does, while slight hints of underripeness are apparent, especially on the finish. The Gruenchers was very reduced when I tasted it from barrel and I wonder if it had a less than fortuitous elevage.

The 2011 Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru Gruenchers comes from a 0.4-hectare parcel (which apparently Jacques Seysses had the opportunity of expanding in the 1980s with the offer of a neighboring plot that he now rues he refused.) It has a fragrant bouquet with dark cherry, plum and a touch of citrus peel. It has fine definition and develops floral notes with aeration. The palate is nicely balanced with crisp tannins, plenty of dark black fruit and tertiary, masculine finish with good persistency in the mouth. Drink 2015-2023. I have been visiting Jeremy and Alec Seysses at Domaine Dujac for several years now, and it is always one of my favorite ports of call. Alec, looking surprisingly chipper for a new dad had taken time off nappy duty to guide me through the 2011s this year. I have to confess that I was concerned by the conspicuous nature of the new oak on both their negociant label wines and the entry Village Crus. I felt that 35% new oak tended to overwhelm the fruit and terroir and occasionally impart drying finishes, which is why my scores are parsimonious here. As I tasted through the range toward the flock of Grand Crus the oak seemed better assimilated, although I would still maintain that the wine is of such quality that the present level of oak risks being superfluous to requirements. All the negociant label wines were bottled before Christmas. Importers: The Sorting Table, Napa, CA; tel. (415) 491-4724; Chambers & Chambers Wine Merchants, San Francisco, CA; tel. (415) 642-5500

(this was racked last December): Bright full red. Very reduced on the nose. Then dense and strong on the palate but not at all sweet; distinctly juicy and a bit tart today. The dark raspberry fruit is complicated by herbs and spices, plus a whiff of fresh blood. A very serious premier cru in the making. According to Jeremy Seysses, the yield of barely 30 hectoliters per hectare was normal for these old vines, which were planted in the 1930s.