2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva

The Sesti 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Phenomena has dried fruit for sure, with redcurrant and pomegranate seed. These desiccated fruit tones dovetail directly into dusty cumin, juniper berry and a touch of clove or a similarly heavy oak tone. The tannins are outright drying, and they overcome the fruit in this vintage. Only 3,500 bottles were made.

A beguiling blend of dusty rose, sage, incense and crushed stone engulfs a core of dried black cherry as the 2018 Brunello di Montalcino Riserva Phenomena blossoms in the glass. It flows across the palate, lifted and refined, with a wave of ripe red fruits that slowly saturate. Tactile mineral tones and fine tannins mingle toward the close. Classically structured, the 2018 leaves a pleasantly bitter twang to linger, along with licorice and orange traces that add youthful tension. Sesti did a wonderful job of maintaining the vivid fruit of the vintage, something that Riserva-level wines seldom do.

Deep to dark ruby with orange tinges. Very backward on the nose only revealing minerally, savoury spice notes. Rich yet taut with deep, tangy cherry fruit and with fantastic tactile, chewy tannins. Stunning balance. (WS)