2012 Bourgogne Hautes Cotes de Nuits

The 2012 Hautes Cotes de Nuits Rouge was taken from stainless steel vat. It has a crisp raspberry bouquet full of vigor, hints of Chinese tea just in the background. The palate is sweet on the entry with fine tannins and a composed, quite elegant brambly finish. This is decent enough, though to be honest, I might opt for the white this year. After modest success with her 2011s, it was great to come back to this domaine to find eternally youthful pixie-like Anne Gros back on form with a gaggle of gorgeous 2012s. Anne, the cousin of Bernard, Michel and Anne-Francoise, is one of the most conscientious winemakers I know, somebody who lives for her family, whether that is her three children or her vines. She exacts a meticulous picking, which in 2012 commenced on 21 September and lasted over three weeks until the 15 October up in her “Hautes Cotes” vines. I have written several times about this domaine, which I visited on my first Burgundy trip back in 1997. They have a slightly modern sheen like her cousin Bernard Gros, but here they are slightly more nuanced and terroir-driven. Quantities are small and sought after, and in 2012 her piece de resistance might not be the Richebourg, rather one of the best Clos de Vougeot wines of the vintage. But do not ignore either her excellent Hautes Cotes de Nuits white or red (or indeed her superb joint venture with partner Jean-Paul Tollot down in sunny Minnervois.) Importers: various importers (go to http://www.anne-gros.com/en/in-the-world.html) and several importers in both the US and UK.