2005 Napanook

The dark ruby/purple-hued 2005 Napanook (76% Cabernet Sauvignon, 14% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Petit Verdot) reveals a big, spicy, tobacco, black currant, sweet cherry, new saddle leather, and loamy soil-scented bouquet. With attractive fruit, a soft, round, full-bodied mouthfeel, and beautiful complexity as well as balance, it is one of the most Bordeaux-like Cabernet Sauvignon-based wines made in Napa. This 2005 should drink easily for 10-12 years. Christian Moueix, Dominus’ owner, has purchased the 35-acre Swanson Vineyard, which is situated between the well-known California bistros, Brix and Mustard’s. I suspect that will result in a third label from Dominus. At present, the production from these large holdings in Yountville is approximately 10,000-12,000 cases, with the second wine, Napanook, representing 3,500-4,000 cases, depending on the vintage. It is ironic that Christian Moueix, the great Merlot specialist at his flagship chateaux in Pomerol, especially Petrus, prefers the other Bordeaux varietals at his Napa property. Interestingly, when I visit Dominus, they always open a fresh bottle and serve it alongside a bottle that has been decanted for 24 hours. On each occasion, the more complex, open wine is the one that has had 24 hours of aeration, something buyers of this wine should take into consideration. These are the two strongest back to back vintages for Dominus since 1990-1991 and 2001-2002. Tel. (707) 944-8954; Fax (707) 944-0547