2022 Gevrey Chambertin 1er Cru

Arnaud Mortet’s Premier Cru blend comes from a handful of top sites: Petite Chapelle (below Chapelle-Chambertin), Cherbaudes (just to the north of Chapelle-Chambertin), Bel-Air (a rocky, gravelly site above Clos de Bèze) and Champonnet (a cool site that he sometimes bottles separately, but didn’t have enough to do so in 2022 as it was hit by hail). He uses 60% whole-bunch fermentation, but with the pedicel removed, and 30% new oak for élevage. The resulting wine is stunning – and one Arnaud himself feels is generally under-rated in his range, ageing well and rarely shutting down in bottle. It’s bright and lifted with vibrant raspberry filling the nose. The palate offers a core of tight fruit – tense, mineral and fresh with a super long, saline finish, with more delicate florals that tiptoe across the tongue. Delicious.