2020 Monbrison

The 2020 Monbrison has an odd bouquet—missing some fruit, a little yeasty. The palate features black cherries and raspberry fruit. It's bitter on the entry and quite short on the finish. This is a strange showing. A second bottle is more or less the same, with a very sour finish. Tasted blind at the annual Southwold tasting.

Plump fruits, attractive freshness and balance, this is good quality, a little reserved but with iris and peony flowers that reflect the spirit of Margaux, along with savoury blueberry and redcurrant fruits, soft waves of tobacco, enjoyable, and one of the better vintages of Monbrison in my eyes, one to look out for. Laurent Vonderheyden owner at this 13ha estate.

74% Cabernet Sauvignon, 17% Merlot, 9% Cabernet Franc. Deep crimson. Dark, pure-fruited. Almost rocky/savoury in that inviting dark character. Deeply savoury on the palate too, fine-grained, firm, structuring tannins. The fruit core is sufficient but all held in by the tannins at the moment. More embryonic than most of the Margaux I have tasted so far in this UGCB line-up. Freshness as much from the acidity as from the chewy tannins. (JH)