1990 Chambolle Musigny Les Veroilles

These exceptionally elegant, medium-weight red burgundies appear to have closed up after an early summer bottling. When I tasted the wines before bottling, I thought they all merited scores several points higher. Since there is no filtering utilized at Barthod-Noellat, I am confident my current scores will appear conservative in several years. The Chambolle-Musigny offerings are all classic expressions of their village. At present, the domaine offers four premiers crus from Chambolle. Tannic and closed, but with excellent potential is the Chambolle-Musigny-Les Varoilles. It is a medium-weight, impeccably clean, pure wine that, at present, is dominated by its oak and tannins. It exhibited much more fruit prior to bottling. I suspect it is going through an awkward stage. Do not look for it to be ready to drink for 3-4 years. Importer: Neal Rosenthal, Select Vineyards, New York, NY.