2022 Clos-Saint-Denis

Georges Lignier’s Clos Saint-Denis comes from two complementary sites: one on the steeper, rockier, Chambolle side with 70-year-old vines which tend to be responsible for the amazing aromatic lift to the wine. The other plot of 50-year-old vines, on the Morey-Saint-Denis side, brings richness and roundness to the palate. With 1.49 hectares, the estate has the largest holdings in the Grand Cru (with Dujac following behind with 1.4 hectares). The 2022 offers a sensual nose full of scented florals and generous, lush, purple fruit. As with his entire range this year, there’s a firmness to the structure that makes the wines less approachable in youth, but they’re not remotely out of balance. The tannins are layered between juicy, bright raspberry and cherry fruit, yet provide a grip and framework of smoky intensity. An excellent wine. It’s aged in 40% new oak; interestingly, the barrels used for Clos Saint-Denis see shorter more intense toasting, versus a longer, gentler toast for the Clos de la Roche.