2022 Bonnes Mares

Unfurling in the glass with aromas of raspberries, cherries, rose petals, smoke and dark chocolate, the 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru (Domaine Louis Jadot) is full-bodied, layered and seamless, with a satiny attack that segues into a deep and creamy core of fruit that's underpinned by lively acids and framed by sweet, melting tannins. This, too, is a real success.

Jadot's Bonnes Mares has a marvellously silky texture – not hard or heavy. It is the antithesis of some versions of this climat, and excels in elegance and length. Technical director Frédéric Barnier placed it last in the tasting, a sure sign of his esteem. He ferments with one-third whole clusters (rare at Jadot) since he feels comfortable with this quantity since it brings complexity without overly marking the wine. The grapes come from a parcel of just over a quarter-hectare that runs the entire length of the Bonnes Mares slope.

The 2022 Bonnes-Mares Grand Cru is well-defined on the nose, with a mélange of red and blueberry fruit, crushed violet and light iris flower scents. This is going to be very seductive. The palate is medium-bodied with pliant tannins and layers of mineral-rich red fruit counterbalanced by a perfectly judged line of acidity. It discretely fans out on the finish and feels tender despite the power here. Superb.