2019 Chardonnay Comandante

The 2019 Chardonnay Comandante is a selection of six barrels that came from the original Wente selection vines at Hyde Vineyard, planted in 1979 and still on AXR-1 rootstock. It was matured in about 30% to 40% new French oak, and winemaker Guillaume Boudet notes, "Over the years we have been toning down the toastiness of our oak, so it integrates a bit better." The 2019 is extraordinarily expressive, with concentrated fruits, flinty mineral character and integrated spicy nuances. The nose offers singular white peaches, lilac, dried herbs and lemon peel with tones of flint and beeswax, continually unfolding as it airs in the glass. The medium-bodied palate is satiny and rounded, with concentrated, slowly blossoming lemon meringue and spice and a very long, detailed finish. Wow!