2018 Nicolas Maillart Les Chaillot Gillis
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Certified sustainable (HVE). 100% Chardonnay, south facing on deep clay (6 metres). A mass-selection vineyard planted in 1963. Vinified in oak barrels on fine lees, unfiltered, unfined. Zero dosage. Disgorged August 2022. 3,633 bottles. Quince tarte Tatin. Almost Chenin-like in its vinous richness and depth and deep-gold shimmer. Honey and peaches and quince and persimmon. Richness but absolutely no fat. It’s a tumble of fruit over stone, honeysuckle over terracotta, honey-steeped blood orange and tamarind paste. It has the most amazing texture (licking terracotta tiles in the rain). A touch of cumin, and just so long and succulent. You could go on finding things forever in this wine – it is quietly amassing a panorama of complexity as it's held in the glass. (TC)
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Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Tamlyn Currin, jancisrobinson.com
Altre recensioni e punteggi
100% Chardonnay from a single mass-selection vineyard in Écueil. The grapes come from two parcels, Chaillots and Gillis, planted in 1963. South-facing mid-slope sites on clay. Dosage 0 g/l. Lemon blossom. Lovely intensity which moves in a trumpet-like shape from flowers to yuzu to cream to toast. The wine really presses in on the palate, with satisfying sweetness of citrus cream and cool, green, leafy length. Lime bonbons etch the sweet but racy acidity. Beautiful weight and elegant flair. (TC)
The 2018 Extra-Brut Les Gillis is 100% Pinot Noir from Ecueil. It was vinified in two 228-liter barrels made from wood sourced in the Ecueil forest that was aged for four years and assembled by cooper Stephane Chassin. Creamy and ample, the 2018 is super-impressive right out of the gate. Apricot, white flowers, tangerine peel and light tropical notes all build in the glass. This rich, textured Champagne is lights-out. The 2018 was bottled with no dosage, but there is some residual sugar. Disgorged: January 2025.