2020 Chateauneuf du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum

A single varietal Grenache that’s only bottled in magnums, the 2020 Châteauneuf-du-Pape Sanctus Sanctorum states 16% alcohol on the label. But this doesn't matter at all, because the alcohol is so well integrated. It enters the stage with a mindbogglingly complex perfume of crushed violets, freshly-cut blood orange, ripe red and black fruits, cloves, licorice, mint, dried herbs and crushed rocks. Swathed in velvety tannins, the palate is full-bodied and layered, ending with excellent persistence on the bold finish.

Lastly, the 2020 Châteauneuf Du Pape Sanctus Sanctorum is always all Grenache from a single parcel of very old vines in the La Crau lieu-dit. I wouldn't be surprised if there was a touch of whole cluster here, but in general this cuvée is mostly destemmed. Brought up in equal parts new and once-used demi-muids, it offers a brilliant array of kirsch liqueur, blackberries, herbes de Provence, and scorched earth, with just a kiss of classy background oak. This is never the biggest or richest wine in the lineup (it's also never the deepest colored), but it's a wine that brings incredible intensity, depth, and complexity while staying flawlessly balanced. It needs just a few years in the cellar and should evolve for two decades. It's a singular expression of old vine Grenache that I wish every reader could taste.