2009 Gevrey Chambertin Fontenys

The 2009 Gevrey-Chambertin Les Fontenys is layered with dark cherries, flowers, spices and menthol. This is an especially fleshy, textured Gevrey. The showy personality of the vintage comes through, but there is also plenty of underlying structure and vibrancy. I especially like the intensity of the finish. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. Importer: Peter Weygandt, Unionville, PA; tel. (610) 486-0800

Medium red. Wild, gamey nose offers redcurrant, rose petal and hints of leather and game. Silky and sweet but with nice acid definition serving to highlight the elegant, fresh flavors of dark fruits, leather and game. Lovely high-pitched flavors of spicy high notes and flowers carry through to the supple finish. A bit like a smaller-scaled Charmes-Chambertin. Incidentally, Chrisitian Serafin is convinced that later racking preserved the freshness of his '09s.

Good deep red. Sexy, rich aromas of black cherry, coffee and gibier Sweet, thick and seamless, with complex flavors of black cherry, pepper, minerals and spices. Firmly built and rather elegantly styled for the year, and a step up in density and length from the village offerings. Finishes with suave tannins and excellent length.