2010 Gevrey Chambertin Symphonie

The 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin is made from 20 separate parcels that are on average 40 years old. Red berries and crushed flowers are some of the nuances that waft from the glass in this pliant if somewhat fragile Gevrey. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. Alain Burguet has decided to retire, so his sons Eric and Jean-Luc are now in charge, although their influence has been felt in the wines for at least a few vintages, most visibly in the reduction of new oak. Otherwise, Eric and Jean-Luc Burguet told me they plan to keep things pretty much as they have been for some time, which means farming without pesticides and bottling with no fining or filtration. Yields in 2010 are down about 45% from 2009, including one full hectare that was lost to the December frost, an enormity for an estate with 6.5 hectares of vineyards. Unfortunately, the 2010 Gevrey-Chambertin Champeaux was too reduced to evaluate. The Vosne-Romanee Les Rouges du Dessus and Chambertin-Clos de Beze are both made from purchased fruit. I will report on the 2009s in the April issue. A Becky Wasserman Selection, Le Serbet, various American importers, including: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700, AOC Imports, CA; tel. (415) 279-8708; Toepfer Imports LLC, CO; tel. (303) 818-7640

A blend of 20 of the youngest parcels. Very sweet start with lots of oak in evidence Very dramatic but maybe not for purists. Rather soft. (JR)