2017 Andremily Mourvedre
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The 2017 Mourvèdre is largely in the same mold, yet shows more meaty, spicy aromas and flavors. All Mourvèdre and revealing a more ruby hue, this full-bodied masterpiece gives up a huge core of blackberry and kirsch fruits as well as notes of dried flowers, peppered beef, herbes de Provence, spice, and hints of garrigue. It's certainly a big, ripe wine, yet it has awesome complexity, silky tannins, and a finish that won't quit. Winemaker Jim Binns continues to pretty much knock it out of the park in every vintage. His 2017s are unquestionably some of the greatest wines in the vintage, and the Mourvèdre (along with John Alban's The Mason Forsyth cuvée) is undoubtedly one of the finest expressions of this variety coming out of California today. These are powerful, full-bodied wines that make no excuses for their fruit or opulence while staying perfectly balanced, pure, and elegant. Readers should not miss these stunningly singular wines.
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Jeb Dunnuck
Antonio Galloni, Vinous
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The 2017 Mourvèdre is a beautiful wine. It is also the most harmonious of the 2017s in the early going, especially with regards to oak. Once again, the aromatics in the 2017 are absolutely beguiling. Cedar, smoke, tobacco, dried leaves and menthol develop with a bit of coaxing. The Mourvèdre is savory and beautifully layered from start to finish. This fruit was sourced from Alta Mesa, White Hawk, Larner and Watch Hill. The Mourvèdre is the one wine in this range that is raised in a combination of barrique and 600L puncheon (50% new). The presence of larger format oak likely explains why the Mourvèdre is a bit less marked by new wood than the other wines. Aging was around 21 months.
The 2017 Mourvèdre is absolutely gorgeous. The aromatics alone are captivating, but the 2017 also possesses terrific energy, nuance and texture. Whereas the 2016 was made with just a single clone of Mourvèdre (Clone 4), the 2017 is a mix of Clones 4 and 369. That combination yields a wine of tremendous complexity as well as character. Sweet tobacco, smoke, leather and savory herb overtones all add nuance, but it is really the wine’s balance that stands out most. Quite simply, the 2017 could very well turn out to be the best vintage of the Mourvèdre yet.
The 2017 Mourvèdre is composed of 88% Mourvedre, 9% Syrah and 3% Viognier coming from the Alta Mesa Vineyard in Santa Barbara County, White Hawk Vineyard in Cat Canyon, Watch Hill Vineyard in Alisos Canyon and Larner Vineyard in Ballard Canyon. Seventy percent whole cluster was employed. To be bottled in mid-August 2019, the wine is still maturing for approximately 21 months in a French oak barriques and 600-liter Demi-Muids, 50% new. Deep garnet-purple colored, it has a beautiful perfume of chocolate box, licorice and bouquet garni over a meat, blueberry pie and baked plums core with hints of tar and tobacco. Full-bodied, wonderfully concentrated and possessing loads of earthy and mineral accents intermingled with the black and blue fruits, it has a compelling velvety texture and great freshness, finishing very long. This spectacular Mourvedre is a must-try for lovers of Rhone varieties!