2017 Morey St Denis Trilogie

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis "Trilogie," which includes 25% whole bunch fruit from vines that tend to suffer millerandage , offers vivacious dark cherry and raspberry coulis scents on the nose. The palate is medium-bodied with grainy tannin, a fine bead of acidity, good focus and a mineral-infused finish that delivers a pleasant sour edginess. Excellent.

A backdrop of wood sets off the fresh and distinctly cool and restrained nose of dark currant, violet and earth elements. There is excellent punch and delineation to the tautly muscular and focused flavors that flash good power on the grippy, rustic and slightly tangy and edgy finish. While this may harmonize, that isn't a given.

The 2017 Morey-Saint-Denis Trilogie hails from three lieux-dits, this year working out at around 60% Chenevery, 30% Porroux and 15% Clos Solon, and it was vinified with 25% whole cluster. Offering up aromas of sweet berries, cassis, licorice, cinnamon and chocolate, it's medium to full-bodied, satiny and layered with a rich but lively core of fruit and fine but chalky structuring tannins. As usual, it's one of the finest renditions of the appellation.