2018 Vivaltus

Muscular, slate hewn tannins, this has a rugged quality where nothing is overpowered by oak and yet it hugs the palate, making its presence felt. Serious tannic architecture that softens through the mid palate to show creamy raspberry and red cherry fruits, spiced aniseed, fennel and liqourice root, sinewy tannins, totally moreish. Aged in 25% new oak, 10% amphora, and the rest in neutral barrels. Jean-Claude and Jeff Berrouet consultants, with winemaker Montxo Martinez and owners Marcos and Carlos Yllera. Old vine Tempranillo, including some dating right back to pre-Phylloxera, sat at between 750m and 1000m altitude, from a selection of their own vines, and those of local growers.

The vintage to be released is the 2018 Vivaltus, which feels very shy, primary and closed and is developing at a glacial pace. The wine is elegant, subtle and insinuating, yet to develop the perfume and exuberance the 2016 has in the nose. It has a leafy twist that gives it freshness, and it has velvety tannins, great balance and elegance. It has the ingredients and the balance between them to develop nicely in bottle, but seeing how the 2016 is singing today, it would be a shame to pull the cork from the 2018.

The 2018 Vivaltus from Ribera del Duero was aged for up to 12 months in barrels and amphorae. Garnet in color, it opens with mint, thyme and herbs, followed by forest tones and then fruit—black cherry and plum. Dry, silky and textured with delicate chalk, it offers a long, flavorful finish of finesse and elegance. After 18 months in bottle, it has gained greater complexity and nuance.