2018 Durfort Vivens

70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot, 7% Cabernet Franc. Vinified in amphora then aged 18 months in new oak barrel (70%) and amphora (30%). Downy mildew reduced the yield to only 7 hl/ha. Organic and biodynamic (Demeter) certification. Dark crimson hue. Rich but lifted with lovely purity of fruit. Round, suave and gourmand on the palate but, again, pure, long and fresh. Impressive concentration. Loads of energy and drive. Peacock’s-tail finish. Promises well. (JL)

Another unusual 2018 that is worth adding to your collection, because if you love wines with a sense of place, there is an added sense of appreciation that each one tells the story of a particular vintage. Just so concentrated, reflective of its tiny yield that barely strayed past 10hl/h (due to mildew, as with the also-biodynamic Ch Palmer in the same vintage). The tannins, although dense, are silky and supple, and the blackberry and fig fruits keep a sense of elasticity and juice. 100% fermented in amphoras, with 70% of the wine moved into new oak barrels after malolactic fermentation for ageing, the other 30% staying in the amphorae. Only available to buy in cases of 3 bottles because there were only 6,000 bottles in total. If you are able to find, set it aside for a few years, and then revel in its pleasures. Winemaker Léopold Valentin, alongside owner Gonzague Lurton.

The 2018 Durfort-Vivens is a total bomb. Inky, rich and explosive, the 2018 exudes concentration from the very first taste. Blackberry jam, spice, lavender, cloves and new leather infuse the 2018 with layers of depth. Durfort is without question one of the most compelling wines of the vintage. The blend is 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 23% Merlot and 7% Cabernet Franc, a bit more Franc than normal because Franc proved more resistant to mildew. The 2018 was vinified entirely in amphora, with manual punchdowns.