2012 Echezeaux

The 2012 Echezeaux Grand Cru has a very enticing bouquet: dense ripe redcurrant and raspberry fruit, cold limestone, a very faint touch of licorice in the background, all very well defined and intense. The palate is very well balanced with firm, supple tannins on the entry. The acidity here is nicely judged and the tension on the finish is excellent. This is a well-crafted Echezeaux that deserve long-term ageing. Approaching Domaine Gerard Mugneret, my car is suddenly surrounded by a swarm of merry elderly gentlemen wrapped up in scarves and overcoats. Not wishing to run anyone over, I just put the handbrake on and wait for the crowd to saunter up to the central square in Vosne-Romanee. When I met Pascal Mugneret I enquired their identity. He answered that his mother’s ecclesiastical connections had resulted in the priesthood requesting a winery visit, no doubt to make sure that their monastic ancestors knew what they were doing when establishing Burgundy’s most coveted vineyards. This was my second visit to the domaine in six months having tasted their 2011s back in June. The good news is that the 2012s, which were picked from 22 September, are even better and I think that is partly due to the decision to include 15% to 25% whole cluster fruit for the first time. It lends these wines more structure and freshness and Pascal remarked that he intends to repeat the practice again depending on the growing season. I was very impressed by these wines and when people ask me who the next star is in Vosne-Romanee, it is people like Pascal that come to mind. These wines were beautifully crafted, each expressive of their respective terroirs, full of tension and vigor, quite simply wines that probably satisfied this writer as much as the clergy. Bravo Pascal! Importer: Becky Wasserman Selection (various importers), Le Serbet, Beaune; fax 011-33-3-80-24-29-70