2006 Seleccion Especial

The 2006 Seleccion Especial spends thirty months in oak, the first year in French oak and then is racked into “neutral,” three to seven year oak for the remainder. The nose is well-defined with ripe blackberry, bilberry, iodine and a touch of vanilla derived from the wood. The palate is medium-bodied with ripe blackberry, leather and a touch of sage, building nicely towards a voluminous, tannic finish that easily supports the weight of toasty fruit. It deserves several years cellaring. Drink 2016-2025. Bodegas Muga was a must during my afternoon visiting the triumvirate of classic Rioja producers located within spitting distance from each other in Haro. The name should need no introduction. It was founded by Aurora Cano and her husband Isaac in 1932, although the family were growers and did not commence winemaking themselves until the 1960s, when they relocated to the building in Barrio de la Estacion. Under Aurora’s son, Isaac Jnr, who joined us for the tasting, Muga fostered a reputation for high quality, classic Rioja wine sourced from an almost incalculable number of tiny parcels. During the 1990s they branched out to pursue what you might call “modern” Rioja with the inception of “Torre Muga” in 1991. This move may have piqued those that feared Muga was forsaking their classical roots, though those fears were unfounded and the bodega continues to fashion wines that embrace both styles. However, let us commence with their sparkling contribution to the Rioja landscape. Importer: Jorge Ordonez, Fine Estates from Spain, Dedham, MA; tel. (781) 461-5767

(70% tempranillo, 20% garnacha and the rest mazuelo and graciano): Saturated ruby. Pungent cherry and dark berry aromas, with spice and floral nuances adding complexity. Sweet and concentrated, but with excellent cut and vivacity to its dark fruit flavors. Builds and deepens toward the back, finishing with a sappy floral quality and resonating spiciness. Offers very good richness of flavor with no excess fat.