2018 Crozes Hermitage Le Clos

Complex nose of wild blackberry and smoke with subtle spice. A very classy and polished wine for this appellation, the tannins are already beautifully integrated, giving it a wonderfully silky feel at the long finish, in spite of the forthright meaty and stony character there. Drink or hold.

While le Clos is consistently the most impressive of the company's offerings from this appellation, the 2018 Crozes Hermitage le Clos is showing a bit too much oak at present, layering heavy notes of cedar and baking spices over blackberries and black olives. It's medium to full-bodied, plush and velvety, with a persistent and nicely textured finish, so if the oak aromas and flavors integrate over time, my rating could look stingy in another couple of years.

Mineral-accented black/blue fruit qualities on the nose, along with olive, licorice and floral notes that build in the glass. Supple and weighty on the palate, offering expansive blackberry and boysenberry flavors that become sweeter and livelier with air. The floral note comes back strong on the spice-laced finish, which shows outstanding persistence and fine-grained, harmonious tannins.