2012 Morey St Denis Cuvee des Allouettes

The 2012 Morey-Saint-Denis Cuvee des Allouettes, which comes from within the Mont Luisants vineyard, has a quite precocious bouquet with blackcurrant, boysenberry and light Hoi Sin scents that unfold nicely in the glass. The palate is solid and dense with firm, quite grippy tannins. There is plenty of energy and tension here with touches of spice and soy lining the ebullient finish. Excellent. Laurent Ponsot, when he is not the Lone Ranger fighting alleged fraud, is busy making wine in his own individual way from his winery perched on the higher reaches overlooking Morey village. As ever, he is refreshingly candid in his views, passionate about the tenets he applies to winemaking, but always counterbalanced with tongue-in-cheek humor. I concentrated on the premier and grand cru 2012s since he was just about to bottle his village crus after one year and they were not ready. He told me that he commenced picking on 3 October, several days later than most winemakers, a date that he assured me he knew as far back as June due to natural indicators, whatever they may be. Yields averaged around 19 hectoliters per hectare, lower for the grand crus, while his famous Aligote from Monts Luisants was wiped out by oidium not from the vines, but from the nearby forest that pricked the flavor of the wine. (I did mischievously quip that I knew of someone in the United States who might be able to rustle some up if so desired – I could not help myself). What I like about Laurent’s wines is that they are edgy, uncompromising, occasionally “Marmite” wines that perhaps like the man himself, goes out to divide opinion and create debate. His strict use of old barrels combined with a dizzying array of grand crus combine to create distinct wines that tend to wear their heart of their sleeves. Importer: Vineyard Brands, Birmingham, AL; tel. (205) 980-8802, Atherton Wine Imports (CA) and through Geodhuis & Co in the UK.

Once again reduction renders the nose impossible to fairly assess. There is however a fine sense of energy and really lovely delineation to the lightly mineral-inflected middle weight flavors that possess very solid mid-palate concentration and a high level of phenolic maturity to the supporting tannins, all wrapped in a balanced and admirably lingering finish. This almost always delivers excellent value and quality and the 2012 version should be no exception. 90-92